Palm Springs, CA has a way of making reality feel liminal. The desert light can be hallucinatory—golden and crisp as it casts its shimmer against the San Jacinto Mountains that rise from the valley like a geological fever dream. The Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians have called the sun-drenched oasis home for centuries, drawn by the same natural hot springs and fan palms that still define the city today—a reminder that long before celebrities and architects arrived, the region has always held a special allure. Today, it’s the kind of city where vintage shops and sleek boutiques might share a block with centuries-old ocotillo cacti, and somehow, in the heat, it all makes perfect sense.
For a certain kind of traveler—the one who plans their Coachella itinerary around gallery hours, or lingers on the architecture walking tour long after the rest of the group has moved on—Palm Springs is less a vacation destination and more a recurring obsession. Hollywood has left its fingerprints all over the valley: Frank Sinatra entertained at his Twin Palms estate; Marilyn Monroe retreated here between films, and Elvis and Priscilla Presley honeymooned in an A-frame hideaway steps from downtown. The mid-century modern bones are all still here, too: the Slim Aarons-famous Richard Neutra homes, the Tramway Gas Station, the rustic geometries of Albert Frey hiding in plain sight. But the city wears its history lightly, pairing it with everything a modern visitor could want: dark cocktail bars, excellent restaurants, mesmerizing hikes, and an endless trove of design-forward hotels.
Once Palm Springs sinks its hooks into you—and it will—it tends to keep drawing you back. Which is a good thing, because there’s plenty to see and do. Below, a look at just a few of the best places to stay, eat, and relax in California’s most iconic desert city.
Where to Stay
Palm Springs is so well-known for its legendary mid-century modern architecture that its phenomenal Spanish Colonial Revival buildings often get overlooked. But at the 30-room Casa Cody, California’s quintessential old-world aesthetic is on full display. Built in the 1920s, the boutique hideaway is Palm Springs’ oldest operating hotel—and also one of its most charming, with a collection of casitas, cottages, studios, and suites accented by cozy fireplaces, terracotta, adobe walls, and wood-beamed ceilings. Thanks to a recent renovation by Electric Bowery and Terremoto, it also feels gloriously up-to-date. Think: Zellige tile-accented guest rooms outfitted with Parachute Home linens, Aesop products, and Alo yoga mats, as well as lush common spaces that include the bistro-style all-day restaurant Harriets, a spa treatment room, and two sparkling garden pools.
Set amidst citrus groves, Korakia Pensione feels less like a hotel and more like a beautifully kept secret—one that has been drawing artists and escapists since the 1920s, when painter Gordon Coutts built a Moroccan-style retreat inspired by Tangier. Today, the compound, which includes a neighboring Mediterranean villa once owned by silent film actor J. Carrol Naish, unfolds across 1.5 acres of lantern-lit gardens, tiled fountains, and hidden courtyards, with 28 individually- named guest villas filled with vintage finds and hand-crafted furnishings. It all adds up to a vibe that feels romantic, effortless, and totally timeless.
Set just off East Palm Canyon Drive behind a minimalist sign, Sparrows Lodge channels a more rustic type of ease than you might expect to find in glitzy-retro Palm Springs. Originally known as Castle’s Red Barn, a 1950s hideaway built by MGM actor Don Castle, the 20-room retreat was reimagined in 2013 to retain its original bones while leaning into a pared-back vibe complete with exposed beams and pebble-inlaid concrete floors. It’s also filled with plenty of thoughtful details, like horse trough bathtubs, Italian linens, Grown Alchemist amenities, and a notable art collection spanning Ruscha to Baldessari. Keeping with the down-home vibe, there are fire pits, a vegetable garden, and a communal lodge hangout space. At the heart of it all, the open-air Barn Kitchen offers desert-driven, farm-sourced dishes under an arbor strung with golden globe lights.
Palm Springs’ most legendary hotel needs no introduction. What began in 1959 as California’s first Holiday Inn has lived several lives, passing through the hands of Gene Autry—who housed his baseball team on the grounds— evolving into a ’90s French-inspired retreat tied to Hubert de Givenchy, and later reemerging under the stewardship of television host Merv Griffin. Its current incarnation, designed by Jonathan Adler, leans fully into what the designer calls “cheeky hedonistic luxury”—a psychedelic swirl of kitschy desert maximalism that still manages to feel surprisingly fresh two decades after its original debut in 2003. Spread across 13 acres of manicured gardens and winding paths, the resort features a dizzying array of diversions: clay tennis courts, pétanque and croquet, multiple pools, a speakeasy-style wine bar, a trio of restaurants, and the Palm Springs Yacht Club—widely known as the best spa in town. The buzzy lobby lounge, with its floating fireplace and massive “Drugs” sign, sets the tone for a stay that prioritizes pleasure over piety. No judgment if you never make it off the grounds.
Where to Eat
Palm Springs’ best brunch is also its most dog-friendly. But don’t let the concept or the name fool you: this all-day cafe is more Dogue than dodgy. The airy atrium interior is all soft wood tones, Art Deco-inspired furniture, and palm fronds, while the menu offers all the hearty breakfast classics (French toast, Eggs Benedict) as well as more innovative options like smoked trout caesar salads and poke toast. Of course, there’s a dedicated menu for furry friends, too.
For a town that runs on poolside afternoons, great coffee isn’t always a given—but Ernest Coffee more than delivers thanks to Stumptown beans, house-made syrups, and a strong matcha program, all of which are best enjoyed on the sun-dappled patio that spills out toward its sister bar, Bootlegger Tiki (another must-visit).
There will most certainly be a line, but these chewy, New York-style bagels are well worth the wait. Made in-house using traditional methods, the bagels at Townie are something of a local favorite, especially thanks to unexpected flavor options like apple-cranberry, olive-fennel, and bacon-cheddar.
In a city that didn’t always prioritize serious cocktails, Seymour’s might just be Palm Springs’ best bar. Tucked discreetly inside Mr. Lyons, this speakeasy is dimly lit and old school, with vintage portraits lining the walls and black-and-white films flickering behind the bar. Best of all, it works equally well for a low-key date or a late-night hang with friends—especially once you make your way out to the patio for bocce ball in the desert air.
Though there are plenty of can’t miss restaurants in Palm Springs, there’s something inherently cinematic about dinner at Copley’s on Palm Canyon—not least because it occupies the former guesthouse of Cary Grant. Set just off the main strip, the almost-entirely al fresco restaurant is all twinkling candlelight and old school vibes, with tables set beneath the open sky with the mountains hovering in the distance. Still, it’s all convivial and laid-back enough to keep it from feeling too fussy. In the kitchen, chef Andrew Copley draws on a résumé spanning London to Hawaii, with dishes like chicken and lemongrass potstickers and crispy branzino with wasabi.
What to Do
Just minutes from downtown, Andreas Canyon feels like strolling through an ancient desert oasis. The easy, roughly one-mile hike winds alongside Andreas Creek—a rare, year-round water source—creating a lush pocket of shaggy California fan palms and wildflowers that seem almost impossible against the surrounding arid landscape. Once home to the ancestors of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, the canyon still holds traces of that history, including ancient bedrock mortars carved into stone. It’s the perfect loop even on sweltering days: short, shaded, and chill, yet totally magical.
Family-owned since 1938, the one-acre garden is a weird and wonderful collection of cacti and succulents from across the American Southwest and beyond. Founded by a couple who once did landscaping for the likes of everyone from Walt Disney to Bing Crosby, the garden features winding paths that lead past arid biomes of towering agave, spiky cholla, and delicate desert blooms—along with interesting rocks, crystals, fossils, and gold-mining relics—and culminates in a greenhouse “cactarium,” where rare and otherworldly specimens cluster together in sculptural formations. It’s otherworldly and endlessly photogenic.
The 200-acre Sunnylands Center & Garden, located in nearby Rancho Mirage, is a mid-century modern delight that shouldn’t be missed. Once the winter estate of ambassadors Walter and Leonore Annenberg, the pink-roofed, 25,000-square-foot main house—which was completed in 1966 by architect A. Quincy Jones—has hosted eight U.S. presidents and Queen Elizabeth II, and still functions as a private retreat for world leaders; indeed, it’s often called the “Camp David of the West.” Book a guided tour to explore the inside, or wander the 1.25 miles of walking paths for some of the best bird-watching in the valley.
Palm Spring FAQs
Palm Springs is intensely hot in the summer. While that can be appealing in its own way—especially if you have access to a cool pool, an icy cocktail, and good air conditioning—the sweet spot for a visit to Palm Springs is January through May, when daytime temperatures hover in the 60s to 80s, skies are a clear, and the city’s biggest draws—like Palm Springs International Film Festival, Modernism Week, The BNP Paribas Tennis Open Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival, and Stagecoach Festival—are in full swing. However, keep in mind that’s also peak season, so expect higher prices, more traffic, and plenty of crowds. For a quieter and just as pleasant alternative, October through December offers comfy temperatures and a highly enjoyable local’s vibe.
The best way to get around Palm Springs is to drive yourself: the city is easy to navigate and parking is relatively easy, but many attractions are spread out. Walking and biking are also options, especially if you’re sticking close to the downtown area—but keep in mind that the bright sun and high summer temperatures can be oppressive. Otherwise, Uber and Lyft are your best bets. If you’re flying, Palm Springs International Airport is just a few miles from downtown Palm Springs, with all the usual rental car and ride-share options available.
